Moscow (Linz) - Irkutsk

On the Tracks of Jules Verne

"It takes time for matter to form and it takes time for gravity to pull it together into stars & planets. The arrow of time creates a bright window in the universe at a liaison during which it is possible. But it´s a window which doesn´t stay open for long. As a fraction of the life span of the universe, as measured from it's beginning to the evaporation of the last black hole, like as we know it, is only possible for one thousands of a billion, billion, billion, billion, billion, billion, billionth of a decade. And that's why the most astonishing wonder of the universe is not a star or a planet or a galaxy, it isn´t a thing at all, it´s an instant in time. And this time is now!"

>>>BBC documentary about the Destiny of our universe<<<

And just as Jules Verne I have a passion for exploration; for discovering unknown places and cultures; for adventures; and visions about our future. This is probably the main reason why people are traveling at all in our days and do not stay all time at only one convenient place. And so it was the same for me, despite many other curiosities and the probable fact that university ended a bit too suddenly - so I decided to add one semester at the university of life. But why Asia and all the way to Beijing by train? Because I just can?! Because I want to feel the freedom of being by myself and my backpack in the middle of nowhere? Because I have never been here so far? Because these places have an interesting history and culture. Because I am going to see gorgeous locations. Because I would probably never ever come to Siberia just randomly and for a three week long vacation in my future - as it is much more likely for other countries. Because I wanted to go to a less touristic place with all it's including challenges - although it's getting more and more mainstream travel after every country. Challenges like - nobody speaks English and the Russian language with it's Cyrillic letters is not the easiest one to "decode". But honestly I didn't expect so less tourists! I didn't meet other travelers before Irkutsk but this is probably enhanced due to the fact that I was not staying in hostels in the previous cities as I did Couchsurfing - anyway a Provodniza on the train told me I am her first tourist in her 1,5 year long career as train hostess and obviously one always is an attraction as tourist (east of Moscow). Actually you only need to start speaking English on the street and people are starring you. I was a bit overwhelmed after arriving in the huge city of Moscow - which is better to compare with London, LA or Sao Paulo rather than with the rest of Russia. Basically because I couldn't read a single word in Cyrillic and not separate between the 1000 of unimportant advertisement information and important Metro info. But I improved quickly and finally made my way safe to Lake Baikal in Siberia. Also because of the very nice help of many locals somewhere on the road. Although Russians are not quite famous for being a friendly people - to travelers as me they where often overwhelmingly friendly as for example a none-English speaking Shashlik street seller called his English speaking friend only to make sure he is preparing my meal the way I prefer it most!! Accordingly I can only confirm again the saying "Smile and the world smiles with you" (even Russians) with all the experiences I made my last 25 years. On the other side Russians can be really unfriendly and insulting their fellow citizens what I observed as well unfortunately. Quality and customer support is probably not their main business if it is about all the broken cars on the street or at the ticket cashier. It's finally time to leave this vast country behind me and go on to Mongolia but as a conclusion I'd say thank you to many friends I made here - especially due to Couchsurfing and who gave me a great and authentic insight into Russian culture. It would have not been the same without you and I am more than happy I dared this adventure. Let's go start the next one!

From Russia with Love,
Clemens 

Moscow - St. Basil Cathedral at Red Square - which was actually closed for the parade.
And sorry for the wrong alignment of the pic. Time and Internet is limited here ;-)

 


Everybody likes to show off... 9th of May Parade in Moscow.

The 1000year old Kremlin in Kazan.

Me and my Couchsufring friends from Yekaterinburg at the European-Asian Border in the Urals.

In Novosibirsk: Behind my CS-host and me is a small Cathedral which is told to be the geographical center of the former Soviet Union. We also had a great day at an orphanage here which I really enjoyed and although I only met these kids for a few hours I feel like I will never forget them.

 

Life on the train - Me and my "Platzkart-family": Maron, a former submarine seaman during the cold war,and Christina with and her grandma  Christina was on her way back from the Rehab in Moscow to Krasnoyarsk where she was the only survivor in a car accident three years ago. But such a platskart adventure can also include fellow travelers looking like mass-murderer (I didn't dare to take pictures of them ;-)) which got kicked out of the train by police - but I guess only because they where drunken and not following the provodniza's rule - and she is the boss on the train. After such a long train ride you wish nothing more than a shower!! But you are in Russia - what means this desired shower might be a real cold one because somebody spontaneous decided to switch off the warm water - as happened in Irkutsk ;-)

Typical Russian car (almost) - quality standards and requirements as well as endeavors to improve it somehow seem to be really low (not only at cars unfortunately) for most of the people. But the willingness of change and drive can be seen in the younger generation. And there especially the feminine part of the population what somehow reminds me on the former East German DDR where most of the women were/are moving to the west. The Russian equivalence is (the wish of) moving to either Moscow, St. Petersburg, Europe or the USA.

Finally at the sacred lake. The Shaman Rock in Olkhon Island.

In Listvyanka - where the Angara river leaves her father. Beside her, some of 300 "sons" are feeding him.

The beautiful and vast Lake Baikal behind me.

Voila, my friends. I would love to share more thoughts and pictures with you. But time is running and my train to Ulaanbaatar is leaving in less than 2h. So I better go to the train station now and get some food for this 33h ride.